If you’re looking to overboard your ceiling but don’t want to deal with the hassle of knocking down plaster, using props, or creating a dusty mess, you’re in the right place. Overboarding can seem like a tough job, but with the right approach, it’s something you can handle without too much fuss—even if you’re a beginner. In this guide, I’ll walk you through a simplified, step-by-step method that’ll help you overboard a ceiling with minimal mess and effort.
Let’s get started!
The best way is to watch the video. We’ve highlighted everything you need to know so watch this and read the rest of the blog for reference. Enjoy
Step 1: Finding the Joists
The first step to overboarding a ceiling is to locate the joists. These are the beams that run across your ceiling and will hold your plasterboard securely in place. You can either look for an anchor point or, if possible, pop up into the loft to check the position of the joists. Luckily, I had already marked mine out.
In the past, many would punch multiple holes to locate them, but this is messy and unnecessary. Plus, if your ceiling has a textured stipple finish and was built before 2000, it could contain asbestos. The less disruption you cause, the better.
Step 2: Marking Your Joists
Once you’ve located your first joist, use a measuring tape to space out the next one. Joists are typically spaced 380 to 400 mm apart, so measure and mark this across the whole ceiling to make sure your plasterboards line up perfectly. Marking the joists is crucial—it will help guide where you’ll screw the plasterboards.
Step 3: Keep the Dust Down
Overboarding can get messy, especially in older homes. I recently worked in a Victorian property and ended up with an eye infection due to dust from the old lime plaster. This is why it’s best to avoid creating unnecessary holes or debris—less dust means a safer, cleaner workspace.
Step 4: Lifting the Boards in Place
Now that you’ve found your joists, it’s time to get the plasterboards up. One corner of the room may fit perfectly, while another might leave a small gap. That’s fine! Using a string line is a good way to ensure accuracy, and you can easily make adjustments.
Here’s a tip: if you’re not using a plasterboard lifter, it might be time to invest in one. They’re a game changer, making it easier to lift and position the boards without needing extra hands or propping them up with tools. I’m not sponsored, but seriously, a board lifter saves a ton of hassle.
Step 5: Adjusting and Cutting the Boards
After you’ve placed your first board, you may notice some gaps between the plasterboard and the wall. All you need to do is measure the gap, cut the plasterboard to fit, and slide it into place. The board lifter really shines here, allowing you to adjust the board without having to hold it up by hand or fiddle with props.
Fitting the boards tightly avoids any weak points, especially if you’re working with Artex ceilings, which can be prone to cracks.
Step 6: Fitting the Full Boards First
It’s easiest to fit all the full boards across the ceiling first and deal with the edges later. After positioning the full boards, secure them with screws. Then, you can focus on cutting smaller pieces to fill in any gaps around the edges. This method keeps the process smooth and efficient.
Step 7: Dealing with Obstacles
If you come across cables or light fixtures, don’t panic. Ideally, you’d remove the light fitting, but if the joist is close to the cable, you can simply cut the board around it. This avoids messing around with the electrics and keeps things simple.
Step 8: Screwing the Boards Securely
When screwing the boards into place, I recommend using 75 mm screws. It’s always better to use screws that are a little too long rather than too short. Also, instead of using an impact driver, opt for a combi drill on a slow setting. This prevents the screws from snapping or weakening due to too much torque.
Make sure you stagger the joints as you screw in the boards. This will help prevent cracks from forming along the seams. I use five screws per row for each board, spaced evenly.
Step 9: Pack Away the Lifter
Once the boards are all screwed in place, you can easily fold up your plasterboard lifter and store it away. It’s quick and saves you a lot of back-and-forth compared to using props.
Final Thoughts & Pricing
Overboarding a ceiling isn’t the easiest DIY task, but with the right tools and a bit of patience, you can get it done efficiently. For this particular job, I charged £590 to overboard and skim a small ceiling (around four plasterboards). It’s a fair price given the work involved, especially when dealing with Artex. Overboarding is a tough job, but when done right, it’s incredibly rewarding—and the finished product will last for years.
Ready to Learn More?
If you’re new to plastering and eager to learn more, why not join our Plastering for Beginners Course? We’ll walk you through the entire plastering process, providing daily video tutorials, including exclusive content you won’t find on YouTube.
Whether you’re a complete novice or want to sharpen your skills, we’ve got you covered!